© Laura Breiling, Patrick Oelze
Berlin is like many cities in one. The capital is divided into over 400 neighborhoods, 96 districts, and 12 boroughs. Each neighborhood or “Kiez” has its own character and conveys a unique way of life. Thus, the alternative Kreuzberg, with its street life and numerous bars, differs significantly from the elegant Charlottenburg with its Wilhelminian-style façades, or from the gentrified Prenzlauer Berg, where coffee with oat milk and vintage strollers are part of everyday life. Historically, the concept of the neighborhood—which encompasses a vibrant community, a sense of belonging and identity—developed from the working-class districts of the 19th century. There, people lived in cramped quarters and helped one another; a tradition that continues to this day. But neighborhoods are also places of change. Where workers once lived, co-working spaces and galleries are now booming. Yet despite gentrification, their own neighborhood remains a piece of home for many. Because people who live in Berlin rarely just live in Berlin, but rather in a miniature version of the city: the Kiez.
1 - No neighborhood would be complete without the SPÄTI, a term widely used in Berlin and short for “Spätverkaufsstelle” (late-night shop), a concept from GDR times. These are small shops where you can shop late into the night outside of normal opening hours: mainly for drinks, cigarettes, and candy, but also for magazines, groceries, and even fresh bread rolls.
2 - Traces of the SQUATTER SCENE can still be found in many neighborhoods. Empty houses and apartments were primarily occupied by people who couldn’t find affordable housing. This often gave rise to alternative cultural institutions. The “Tuntenhaus” in Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg district is an example of a housing project by gay people that emerged from a squatted house.
3 - The NOLLENDORF NEIGHBORHOOD is considered the center of Berlin’s queer community. As early as the 1920s, it was a meeting place for gay artists and intellectuals. Today, bars and clubs define the “Rainbow Neighborhood.” Hundreds of thousands of visitors come every year for Pride Week in June and the parade on Christopher Street Day.
4 - After reunification, a lively neighborhood with an alternative scene developed around BOXHAGENER PLATZ. Cafés, bars, and weekly markets attract young people and families. The “Boxi” is known for its apartments in older buildings and street festivals. Once a working-class neighborhood, it is now a popular residential area facing significant gentrification pressure.
5 - The KOLLWITZKIEZ around Kollwitzplatz is named after the artist Käthe Kollwitz. After 1990, the former GDR working-class neighborhood transformed into one of the city’s most popular residential areas. Wilhelminian-style buildings, organic grocery stores, and cargo bikes define the scene. The neighborhood is considered a prime example of gentrification in Berlin.
6 - The REUTERKIEZ, also known as Kreuzkölln, lies between the Landwehr Canal and Hermannplatz. The neighborhood has evolved from a socially deprived area into a trendy district with studios, bars, and immigrant-owned businesses. Many residents come from Turkey, Lebanon, or Eastern Europe. The neighborhood is simultaneously a symbol of cultural diversity and displacement.
7 - The WRANGELKIEZ stretches around Wrangelstraße and is bordered by the Spree and Görlitzer Park, among other landmarks. For a long time, it was the center of Kreuzberg’s squatter movement and alternative culture. Today, with the arrival of clubs, bars, and studios, the area is considered an up-and-coming trendy neighborhood in Berlin and is a magnet for tourists.
Did you know …
… that there are various theories about the origin of the term “Kiez”? One suggests the word comes from the Slavic “kizy” or “kyz,” which roughly translates to “village by the water.” Another possible origin is “kitzen,” which means “small apartment” in Middle Low German.